Paraclimbing Worldchampionship 2018, Innsbruck

The first route I had to climb at the Paraclimbing Worldchampionship in Innsbruck is the red one you see in the images below. On the left there is a detailed picture of the first few meters up, and then the route turns to the right, which you see in the right-hand picture. In the beginning there are many holds, so it seems easy. But none of these holds is good enough to support my entire weight with only one hand, so I had to be creative, and lean to the right (that’s also why it takes so long to begin; see video clip).

It wasn’t an easy route, but I fought well, which earned me an 8th position in the classification after the first route.

 

Innsbruck2018 2nd qual

Only the best four climbers continue to the finals, so I knew I had to do better in the second route. I had some faith in that, because the second route seemed somewhat easier than the first.

I had a clear plan how to climb the route, and everything went relatively smoothly, when all of a sudden I heard the voice of the commentator through the speakers: “PLEASE STOP CLIMBING, YOU HAVE BEEN DISQUALIFIED”. I had used a bolt sticking out of the wall to stand on, and you’re not allowed to do that.

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semi-outdoor training Bad Gastein

Six weeks before the Worldchampionship in Innsbruck I’m doing some training in Austria. I call it semi-outdoor, because there are some extra holds fastened to the rock. But because the rock-face is not very smooth these extra holds can wiggle a bit, so you have to be very careful when using them!

2018 - bad gastein

Paraclimbing Imst 2018 final result

Imst 2018 - dag1route2

On Saturday (the first day; I had to climb three routes) I was really tired; I had a ‘bad hair day’, so I topped only one out of three routes. Usually, the routes on the second day are more difficult, so I hadn’t expected much: I expected to reach only the second or third grip… that was not the case! I climbed all three routes until about halfway. I couldn’t catch up with the other competitors after the first day, but I had a surprising Sunday! I ended fifth in my category.